Pilbara travel: Tracey brings bird walks to life with unrivalled charm, energy and passion

It is a peaceful day in Roebourne where we find ourselves enjoying a walk as the hot and humid wet season slowly gives way to the long dry. Late season rain has topped up the Ngurin (Harding) River, leaving the sound of trickling water to play with birdsong in the warm afternoon air. That water has our tour guide and self-professed “birdbrain” Tracey Heimberger excited — at the right time of day the pools of water play host to all manner of feathered creatures from majestic black swans to feisty little finches. Heimberger’s love of birds is evident from the get-go: it is a passion born from grief and loss, and a hobby she has worked tirelessly to turn into a business in the past few years. Three years ago, when Pilbara Bird Tours was little more than a dream, Heimberger had revealed to the Pilbara News her birding escapades were a way for her to heal following the heartbreak of her husband’s death. Today those solemn adventures have turned into tours, and Heimberger now boasts an uncanny ability to convey her deep-rooted love of birding to both expert twitchers and casual observers. As we walk along the footbridge at the top of historic Roebourne, Heimberger shoots the breeze with us about her love of the Pilbara, her interest in local Indigenous history and the day’s topics of interest. Then, a bird call breaks the gentle rustling of leaves. Heimberger knows what the sound is, and where to look. Our casual conversation is instantly put on pause as Heimberger hones in on the birdsong like a hawk to its meal. It is a group of budgerigars — a mum and dad with a juvenile, dancing around a tree on the other side of the river. We stand below the tree watching with binoculars for 10 or so minutes as Heimberger keeps pointing out more and more of our little green friends. Time constraints meant we went on a brief walk with Heimberger in the afternoon, but take a trip on her guided walks at prime birding hours in Roebourne and Cossack and you’re a good chance of seeing swans, rainbow bee-eaters, galahs, finches, spinifex pigeons and many rarer feathered species — both locals and those who fly in from elsewhere. The most excited person about any bird sightings on the trip is often Heimberger herself, an attitude which quickly rubs off on guests. One may assume having seen so many birds the lustre may have worn off for Heimberger, but this is what genuine passion looks like and it is infectious. Seeing the person in charge of the tours getting so animated about the subject she shares is refreshing and, with Heimberger. It isn’t just incidental sightings either — Heimberger knows her patch well. Outside of work she spends plenty of time doing what she loves, birding, which has helped her develop an almost unrivalled knowledge of nesting locations and what birds are hanging out where. Pilbara Bird Tours Tours available on request Price: $15 to $30 Binoculars provided